Cadet

Pearl's Verdict

If you want to understand what a natural wine bar done right looks like in London, Cadet in Newington Green is a stronger reference point than most of what you'll find in Soho or Shoreditch. The collaboration between wine importers Beattie & Roberts, charcutier George Jephson, and former St John-and-Lyle's-trained chef Jamie Smart gives this compact bar a credibility that most neighbourhood wine spots can't claim. Book for a Thursday-to-Sunday evening if you want the full picture, but don't dismiss a midweek visit if you're in the area.

What Cadet Is

Cadet operates as both a wine bar and a shop, sitting on the leafy stretch of Newington Green in N16. The room is compact, the setup unpretentious, and the focus is sharply defined: largely French natural wines sourced by Beattie & Roberts, and charcuterie that reflects Jephson's obsession with pâté en croûte and rillettes. That dual identity as retail and hospitality space is visible the moment you walk in. Bottles line the walls. The team, by all accounts, are chatty and genuinely helpful with the wine list rather than performatively so.

The pedigree behind the food is worth noting. Jamie Smart's time at St John, one of London's most influential kitchens, and at Lyle's, which has held serious critical recognition, translates into cooking that is seasoned properly and served without fuss. That training shows in the restraint: dishes like slip sole with Café de Paris butter and rillettes that are described as excellently seasoned are exactly what this format calls for, and they're executed with confidence rather than ambition for ambition's sake.

Weekday vs. Weekend: The Key Decision

This is where Cadet's split personality becomes the most useful thing to understand before you go. Monday through Wednesday, the bar runs on simple snacks alongside the wine selection. That's a fine evening if you're after a glass and a bite in a well-chosen room, but it's a limited experience by design. From Thursday to Sunday, a blackboard menu appears with the full range of Jephson and Smart's cooking: pâté en croûte, rillettes, slip sole, and the kind of generously flavoured dishes that justify the trip from further afield. If you're travelling specifically for the food-and-wine pairing experience, a weekend visit is non-negotiable. A Tuesday visit is leading treated as a wine-shop-with-seating occasion rather than a dinner destination.

For anyone comparing Cadet to Primeur, which sits a few streets away and draws from a similar ethos, the distinction is that Cadet leans harder into charcuterie and wine as its twin pillars rather than offering a broader seasonal menu. Both are worth knowing about if you're spending time in N16.

Why Newington Green Works in Your Favour

The postcode keeps the prices reasonable and the room from becoming the kind of place that's permanently overrun. Newington Green doesn't have the footfall pressure of Soho, which means you're more likely to get a seat on a Thursday without booking three weeks in advance. The neighbourhood has developed a cluster of food-serious venues over the past decade, and Cadet sits comfortably among them without needing to shout about it. For visitors staying centrally, it's a 20-minute bus or Overground journey from Angel or Dalston, and the trip is worth factoring into any food-focused itinerary across London's wider scene, which you can explore further in our full London restaurants guide.

Who Should Book

Cadet is well-suited to wine-focused diners who want a producer-led list with genuine expertise behind it, rather than a curated-looking list with no one who can actually talk about it. Food-and-wine enthusiasts who know their way around natural French producers will get the most from the experience. Solo diners and pairs work well here given the bar format and compact space. Larger groups are harder to accommodate in a room this size. If you're looking for a more structured evening with table service and a longer menu, you're better served elsewhere, but for what Cadet is, it's a strong choice for the right occasion.

For context on how Cadet fits into London's broader bar scene, see our full London bars guide. If you're pairing a Newington Green visit with wider food research across the UK, venues like L'Enclume in Cartmel and Moor Hall in Aughton represent the other end of the ambition spectrum, while Hand and Flowers in Marlow shows what a pub-rooted kitchen can achieve with serious technique. Internationally, Le Bernardin in New York City and Atomix in New York City are the reference points for what focused, format-led dining looks like at the highest level.

FAQ

What should I order at Cadet?

• On a Thursday-to-Sunday visit, the blackboard menu is where the kitchen shows its range. Pâté en croûte and rillettes are the charcuterie anchors, and slip sole with Café de Paris butter is the kind of dish that makes the trip worthwhile. The wine team can guide you through the largely French natural wine selection, and pairing advice is part of what makes the experience work.

Can Cadet accommodate groups?

• The room is compact, so groups of more than four are likely to find space limited. Pairs and solo diners are the natural fit for the bar format. If you have a larger group, it's worth calling ahead to check availability, though contact details are not currently listed publicly.

Does Cadet handle dietary restrictions?

• The menu is charcuterie-led, so it is not well-suited to guests who don't eat meat. Fish dishes do appear on the blackboard, but the core identity of the kitchen is built around pâté, rillettes, and cured meat. Contact the venue directly before visiting if dietary needs are a concern, as specific menu information is not confirmed publicly.

What are alternatives to Cadet in London?

• For natural wine with serious food in London, Primeur in N16 is the most direct local comparison, with a broader seasonal menu. If you're open to travelling further and want to move up in formality, CORE by Clare Smyth and The Ledbury are at the ££££ end of the spectrum and a different category entirely. For wine-bar experiences in a different part of the city, our full London bars guide covers the range.

Is Cadet good for a special occasion?

• It works well for a low-key celebration with someone who cares about wine and food provenance. It is not the right choice if you want a formal occasion with table service, a long tasting menu, or a private dining room. For that, Sketch, The Lecture Room and Library or Restaurant Gordon Ramsay are more appropriate.

What should a first-timer know about Cadet?

• Go on a Thursday or later in the week to get the blackboard menu rather than just snacks. The wine list is the anchor of the experience, and the staff are the leading way into it, so don't skip the conversation. It's a bar and shop in one, so browsing the bottle selection is part of the visit. Don't expect a long menu or a formal dining room.

Is Cadet good for solo dining?

• Yes. The bar format suits solo diners well, and a natural wine bar with knowledgeable staff is one of the better settings for eating alone in London. You can engage with the team on wine choices without it feeling forced. Midweek solo visits work for a drink and a snack; aim for Thursday onwards if you want a full meal.

Can I eat at the bar at Cadet?

• Bar seating is part of the format rather than a fallback option. Given the compact size of the room, much of the experience happens at or near the bar. This is not a venue where bar seating is a lesser option, so don't hold out for a table if bar space is available.